2006-11-17
Savoir Fare
What wine do you serve with Thanksgiving dinner?
Every year, advice on this important matter is dispensed in local newspaper columns written by experts as well as amateurs. For some Americans this is the only meal all year during which wine is served. Wine lends the meal ritual significance. So do cloth napkins. But choosing napkins should be easy. Choosing wine is another matter.
Most advice can be reduced to two rules: avoid tannins and drink what you like. Tannins, it is explained, are the bitter enemy of sweet foods -- winter squash, sweet potatoes and cranberry sauce -- while green beans and the cabbage family of vegetables taste too green in their presence.
Drinking what one likes is our American creed.
Allow me to add one more recommendation: don't over-think it.
Over-thinking wine and food pairings has the curious but well-documented karmic effect of spoiling both wine and food. Great food and wine pairings are impulsive ones -- intuitive, not analytic.
If we may use a term from the language of Detroit's first European settlers, choosing the right wine for Thanksgiving requires savoir faire (it means dexterity and ease in social and practical affairs -- from French “to know how to act.”) Despite its exotic sound, you have an abundance of it.
Don't follow a rule book. Do what makes sense.
This is not the same as "drink what you like." That suggestion is really just a lazy way out of the problem for overmatched wine writers. Following this advice requires us to ignore the fact that wine is an ingredient on the table. You may like chocolate éclairs, but it would be wrong to stuff your turkey with them.
And you know that because you have savoir faire.
Use your instincts. Imagine you are eating Thanksgiving dinner right now. Inhale. What do you smell? Then find a link. Choose a wine that you think will go with one of the main flavors on the plate and forget the rest.
One definitive flavor of Thanksgiving dinner is cranberry sauce, and there is one specific wine sold at Cloverleaf which not only can dialogue with plates of food perfumed with tart red berries and sugar, it sings with them two parts of a three part harmony. I am referring of course to Domaine de Bellivière rosé (or as I call it: "believe yer ears rosé.")
Domaine de Bellivière rosé (<$23) is not a dry rosé. It is not a patio wine for drinking cold out back by the grill in August. It is a singular expression of one of the most interesting grape varieties you will ever encounter: Pineau d'Aunis (pea know doe niece.)
Remember Burgundy? Red Burgundy is made from Pinot Noir. The price of red Burgundy is based on a system of vineyard rankings established in the 16th century by Benedictine monks. But this elaborate system was not established by making red wine. It was established by making rosé. Richebourg, Chambertin, Clos de Tart: these were originally pink wines.
Just as the monks discerned the great wines of Burgundy through the prism of rosé, so too can we discern the greatness of Pinea d'Aunis. Unlike red Pineau d'Aunis (which I invite you to try), the flavors of pink Pineau d'Aunis (strawberry, cranberry and cinnamon) are gloriously transparent, completely unobscured by tannins.
Which brings us back to rule #1: avoid tannins.
It turns out this is good advice. Tannins do clash with sweet elements and green vegetables. If you insist on drinking dark red wine you should at least choose one that is micro-oxygenated.
Here are some other wines to consider for your Thanksgiving table:
Theo Minges 2005 Riesling Halbtrocken, 1 liter bottle, <$15
Before I worked in a wine store my brother-in-law would bring a bottle of Black Tower to Thanksgiving dinner. It was tasty white German wine, not sweet, about $5. Theo Minges is a wunderkind of the Pfalz, the German counterpart of Alsace. This wine comes in a larger bottle because anything smaller would be a tease. This won't key on any particular element in the traditional Thanksgiving array of foods (unless seafood is served), but it is a versatile wine that will not clash with anything.
Peachy Canyon 2004 Zinfandel, <$13
It seems like there are no tannins in this drinkable, all-American red wine. Like Belliviere Rosé it will hinge on cranberry sauce.
Balletto 2005 Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley, <$26
Tom's crazy about this Pinot Noir. I haven't tried it yet. Pinot Noir tends to work well with potatoes.
Jean-Paul Brun NV FRV100 (pronounced "effervescent" with a French accent), <$17
Sparkling, not-totally-dry, dark rosé slash light red, made by the master of a rainbow Beaujolais wines. Hinges: cranbery sauce, sweet potatoes, winter squash and stuffing.
Clos du Tue-Boeuf 2005 Cheverny, Rouillon, <$23
This looks similar to another wine we sold through in October, but it has a greater proportion of Pinot Noir. Red, light-textured, all natural and gorgeous. This is a down-the-middle match with potatoes, mushrooms, cranberry relish and eggy stuffing.
Chateau d'Oupia 2005 Minervois Rosé, <$12
Dry rosé. Versatile, cooperative partner for a variety of dishes. Easy choice with difficult food such as baked bell peppers, green beans and tacos.
Radikon 2002 Jakot (500ml), <$40
This is not a dessert wine. It is a low-yield exercise in turning white grapes into nectar of the gods. Read more here.
2006-11-16
Importer Joe Dressner
Join Importer Joe Dressner Friday, December 8th at 7:00.
Dinner will be prepared by Charles Keeps of Savoir Fare in Southfield.
Louis/Dressner Selections is the most coherent, delicious catalogue of authentic European wine ever.
Charles Keeps is a star. Here is his working menu:
Amuse Bouche of Lotus Root Chip with Seared Porcini Crusted Tuna
and Wasbi Ginger Sauce
Smoked Whitefish, Sundried Tomato and Arugula Mousse Napoleon
Pan Seared Mascarpone –Parmesan Polenta with Porcini Mushrooms
Crab Gratin with Asparagus, Leeks, Tarragon and Gruyere
Pan Roasted Loin of Lamb with Celeriac Puree and Parsnip “Frites”
Braised then Glazed Boneless Beef Shortribs with Grilled Fennel,
Truffled Roasted Fingerling Potatoes and Carrot Puree
Savory Tart of Stilton, Candied Walnuts and Macerated Cranberries
OR
Vanilla Poached Seckel Pear filled with Pistachio Pastry Cream
This dinner is limited to 25 guests.
Price: $85
Call now to reserve your seat: (248) 357-0400
2006-11-10
New!
In Order of Price
Imagine These in a Gift Basket
 $1.45 Bell's Lager
$2.38 Bell's Hopslam
Bell's new lager is a great beer. It has everything: 1) clean refreshing balance, 2) rustic yeast and hops signature, and 3) drinkable price. We routinely drink dozens of different American Lagers and we feel this one is so clearly the best of them all, we've decided to make your dad drink it. By way of contrast, Bell's Hopslam is a "biting, bitter, tongue bruiser of an ale. With a name like Hopslam, what did you expect?"
 $2.50 El Yucateco Salsa KutBil-ik
$2.50 El Yucateco Salsa Picante Caribbean Recipe
While these sauces are quite hot, they are no hotter than absolutely necessary. The idea is to capture in bottle the pure bewitching perfumes of capsicum fruit, ripened in the tropics and roasted by the sun. KutBil-ik is an authentic Mayan sauce. No coloring is added. (KutBil-ik is the Mayan word that refers to the process of mashing chili peppers in a tamul, or mortar.) The Caribbean recipe is slightly milder.
 $4.25 Bieken
There is simply no way to describe a beer like this. It's not beer (it is). We don't like beer (we do). It's a familiar, buttery drink of spiced, baked pear and herb flavor. Serve it with crunchy fried potatoes or dumplings or onion tarts or bacon pizza. Not too cold!
 $5.33 Double Bastard 2006
This beer is 10% alcohol. It has a lot of malt and a lot of hops. Personally, I can't drink such beers. I'm not worthy. Others have been waiting for this beer their whole lives.
 $13 Pesquié 2003
Think of big, chocolaty ripe Grenache berries. This is a Rhone Valley wine. It is full-bodied and dry. It deserves to be enjoyed in big chewy mouthfuls. Robert Parker gave this wine 89 points, which makes it precisely one point better than 2002 Turley Cellars Duarte Zinfandel (and 22% the price!) Here's how Parker described it: "soft, sexy, delicious effort that comes across like a mid-weight Chateauneuf du Pape. Kirsch liqueur, pepper, and spice box are present in this medium to full-bodied, supple-textured, heady wine." How do you describe it? Email me.
 $14 Auratus 2004
This is the sprout of a project begun by Spaniard Marcial Dorado to make the great Iberian white wine. It is made from organic farmed, hand-harvested Alvarinho/Albariño and old-vine Trajadura in a cellar that favors gravity over pumps. It is a very strongly flavored crisp white that offers flavors of grapefruit, orange marmalade, red apple skin tannins and leesy, custard-like richness. Drink with wild-caught fish. Or drink wildly while catching fish.
 $17 Yuzu Wine
Yuzu is a rare hybrid citrus fruit of mysterious provenance grown in China and Tibet but more so in Japan. This adorably delicious wine will amaze your guests. Serve it cool as an aperitif, intermezzo or after-dinner wine, or with black cod or hamachi.
 $18 Montesecondo Rosso 2004
Write this down. Vignaiolo Silvio Messana is going to be really famous. One day he will ride a helicopter to the big Wine Spectator annual awards tasting and people with millions of dollars of jewelry will line up just to shake his hand. Retailers will dole out tiny allocations of his wine at exorbitant prices, but only to their best, most worthy customers. With one flip of a cell phone Silvio will "make" thousands of cases of eponymous Argentinean wine (to satisfy clamoring admirers of his Tuscan estate wines). Please, no photographs. This, his fourth vintage and the first with 100% wild yeast, is raw Sangiovese electricity. Serve with chops, quenelles, or pastrami sandwiches.
 $18 Pumpkinseed Oil
Green gold. What do you want to know first?: 1) Styrian pumpkinseed oil is incredibly healthy, especially for men over 40, or 2) Styrian pumpkinseed oil has the most amazing, addictive, nutty taste? Stir a tiny portion into plain yoghurt for a creamy green nougat-like side dish, dip or salad topping. Scarf it down as a hedonist and feel good about enhancing your omega-3 levels. Then run 3 miles. Feel good. Drink more wine.
 $23 Pétillant Naturel
Don't buy this. It's too outrageous.
 $24 Roilette, Cuvée Tardive
Roilette is a clos within the appellation of Fleurie. This is a cousin of the Jean Foillard Morgon featured in a recent newsletter (20 October 2006). It will age nicely and always be pretty. Serve with light-flavored food, particularly vegetables, chicken pie or tuna melts.
 $25 Olio Beato
This olive oil has a buttery texture and taste. It is 100% organic, hand-harvested, kosher, gold-medal-winning and low-acidity (<0.035%). It is from the Bari valley of Puglia Italy (the boot heel). It was recently featured in The Washington Post.
 $27 Domaine du Closel Savennieres, Clos du Papillon 2004
There is some bottle variation here. Some bottles are honeyed and fat-textured and others are clear and closed. I view this surprise element as a bonus. Wine Spectator declared it to be a 93 point wine. That makes it precisely 5 points better than 2003 Screaming Eagle (and 6% the price!) Here's how James Molesworth describes it: "Big wine, but with excellent definition and purity, this sports ginger powder, unsalted butter, white peach, honeysuckle and persimmon notes. Nice bracing finish has a hint of bitter almond. Drink now through 2012. 300 cases imported." How do you describe it? Email us.
 $30 Robert Mondavi Cabernet Sauvignon, Stags Leap District 2000
It's back! From an over-achieving swing of the late Mondavi empire emerges this complex, chocolate and graphite-scented Cabernet Sauvignon, one of the very few Napa Cabs we know of that is compatible with food (steaks, roasts). Robert Parker awarded it 90-91 points, which makes it potentially just as good as 2003 Phelps Insignia (and 24% the price!) Here's how Parker described it: "The Margaux-like 2000 Cabernet Sauvignon Stags Leap District is elegant as well as authoritatively flavored. There are 4000 cases of this 94% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Merlot, and 2% Malbec blend. Notes of licorice, white flowers, black currants, and minerals emerge from this perfumed, focused, medium-bodied, pure effort. Tannin in the finish suggests additional cellaring is warranted. Anticipated maturity: 2005-2015."
 $56 Mitolo Shiraz, G.A.M. 2005
Robert Parker awarded this wine 95 points, which makes it precisely 6 points better than 1989 Chateau Latour (and 19% the price!) Here's how Parker described it: "Fashioned from a McLaren Vale vineyard, the 2005 Shiraz G.A.M. (named after the Mitolo children -- Gemma, Alexander, and Marco) is a deep ruby/purple-hued effort displaying beautiful blackberry, white pepper, licorice, and toasty oak notes. Rich, full-bodied, and intense, with blueberry and blackberry flavors, sweet tannin, and excellent purity, it is a tour de force in winemaking. Enjoy it over the next decade."
|
